Mapping eyelash extensions

Every client I see has a different design for their eyelash extensions, so it's important to map them. Mapping eyelash extensions makes it a lot easier for the eyelash technical when doing more complex designs. For example 5 different lengths for just one person. See my previous post on different styles available .

I personally normally split eyelashes up into 3 selections. So before applying eyelash extensions pads I write the clients requirements on the pad. I also put two cuts into the pad, so it gives it more freedom to be individual. The under eye pads sadly only come in one design, so by cutting two slits in them gives them slightly more flexibility. Therefore it's more comfortable for the client and fit better.

By mapping eyelash extensions out on the pads it prevents you from forgetting their design or having to keep looking at your notes. I also them have the eyelash extensions strips on the back of my hand in length order. Smallest at the top.

 

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eyelash extensions holder
Set-up of eyelash extensions on the back of my hand for speed when applying individual eyelash extensions,.

Mapping individual eyelash extensions


styles of eyelash extensions

Styling individual eyelash extensions

Styling eyelash extensions

You can create many different styles with individual eyelash extensions. They can be very individual for you. Whether you want a full on outrageous style or a more natural everyday look. These eyelash extensions are perfect for everyone. They are one extension, isolated and placed on one natural lash. They are often refereed to as classic. For more advanced individual eyelash extensions you can apply multiple very fine lashes to one natural lash. These are refereed to as volume lashes.

Varying the length of the lashes greatly changes the look of the eyelash extensions. For example placing longer lashes on the outer corners can give what we call 'cat flicks'. You can create a really dramatic or very natural look depending on your personality or even event. A lot of women prefer a more dramatic look for their wedding day, so it shows up for the camera.

styles of eyelash extensions
Styling individual eyelash extensions. Ignore my lack of drawing skills!

Audrey Hepburn- sweep of lashes getting bigger to the corners of the eyes
Geisha's fan. Slightly smaller lashes towards the corners of the eyes.
Cat's flick - A lot longer lashes in the corners
Elegent - smaller in the middle close to nose and slightly longer in middle/ corners
Mixed - A pattern of small, medium and longer lashes used.

Curls

Also by changing the curl used this can make a dramatic difference. The more curly the eyelash extension the more can be seen from the front. So as you can see from photo below a C shows more the eyelash extension than a J curl from the front.

Comparing curls in eyelash extensions

Thickness of the lashes also effects the style. I only offer 0.20, 0.15, 0.10 and 0.07 at the moment. Depending on if you choose classic or volume lashes.

Styles of eyelash extensions


Comparing curls in eyelash extensions

Comparing eyelash curls

There are lots of different curls available with eyelash extensions. J, B, C, D, O.... but what difference does it actually mean to your eyelash extensions? The curl is most noticeable from the front as the more curly the eyelash extension the more that will be seen.  At the moment I stock J, B and C curls at my Norwich based beauty salon. So therefore the most dramatic one I stock is C curl as it shows the most from the front view. The length of the extension is it's length pulled out straight, so D curls actually look slightly shorter.Read more


Eye twitching during eyelash extension application

How to prevent eyes twitching during eyelash extensions application?

This week I had a very excited client come in to have her eyelash extensions infilled. She was super hyped up as her eyelash extensions she had in were over 4 weeks old and desperately needed topping up. She had them done in London at the beauty show and now wants to continue wearing them. She decided to come to me as I am local to her.

I am part of quite a few facebook support groups for eyelash extensions and had 'banked' a few ideas, but never needed to use them before as I can normally calm the client down before starting. I normally slowly rub the temples on the side of the head and get them to concentrate on their breathing. However I could feel nothing was going to calm this lady down that quickly. Note to clients: avoid caffeine before your appointment hehe!Read more


natural lashes with extension

Why do I need infills with eyelash extensions?

Why do I need infills with eyelash extensions and why do I need them sooner than others seem to?

natural eyelash with eyelash extension on
Naturally fallen out volume (2D) lashes.

It's important to understand with eyelashes that they do actually fall out. I know this sounds like common sense, but it's interesting how many people are surprised by this! I guess it's just something we don't think about. Also like all hair on our body the hairs grow in cycles. Hair on your head has a longer cycle than eyelashes hence why you can grow your hair really long!

Hair grows in cycles, and each cycle has three phases – growth (anagen), transition (catagen) and resting (telogen). Hair only grows during the first phase and then it transitions and 'rests' until it falls out. The three phases of the hair growth cycle differ in duration depending on the body location and you as a person. I have seen natural eyelashes as short as 3-4mm and as long as 15mm in length! We are all different meaning that some of us can go longer between infill appointments. I have some ladies who can go 4 weeks between their appointments and other just 2 weeks before they need a top up.Read more


How to shampoo eyelash extensions

It's really important to shampoo individual eyelash extensions to keep them clean and healthy. Build up of oils on the eyelash extensions causes the glue to break down and the extension to come away from the natural lash.

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There are lots of eyelash extension shampoos and cleansers on the market. For this blog post I have used Lashbase cleanser. It's RRP is £15-20 per bottle. This eyelash extension cleaser is oil free and a neutral ph, so perfect for using at home to keep the lashes clean. It's also ideal to use prior to applying a full set of individual eyelash extensions. It's great at preventing blepharitis, which is inflammation of the eyelid.

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Personally I prefer using a small fan brush to clean the eyelash extensions. Above is a client with no lashes on, so I am using this cleanser prior to application. It's important to only use the foam on the fan brush to clean down and away from the lids taking away any old mascara, foundation which has built up on lashes etc. After using the foam wash on the lashes I then rinse with a saline solution or cooled boiled water to remove the soap. It's very important to still use a primer (alcohol based) to remove every last bit from the lashes. Anything left on the natural eyelashes will cause a barrier between the glue and natural lash.

 

Extract from Lashbase on their cleanser

"Purified - Eyelid and Lash Cleanser

LashBase Purified is the must-have lash cleanser. Specially formulated to be PH neutral and oil free. This foaming cleanser is ideal for your client to thoroughly clean their lashes and eye area and forms part of the perfect after care regime to keep their lashes clean and healthy after your work is complete.

For technicians using Purified prior to an eyelash extension application, a Primer must be used to clear any soap residue.

Purified is also a great treatment to help Blepharitis suffers and can keep all symptoms at bay to leave your eyes and eyelids feeling fresh and comfortable. For those of you that don't know, Blepharitis is a common condition that causes inflammation of the eyelids. The condition can be difficult to manage because it tends to recur. Symptoms of Blepharitis include a foreign body or burning sensation, excessive tearing, itching, sensitivity to light (photophobia), red and swollen eyelids, redness of the eye, blurred vision, frothy tears, dry eye, or crusting of the eyelashes on awakening.

Instructions for use - Apply one pump of Purified cleanser on to the finger tips (or back of your hand and use asilicone mascara wand) and gently massage into the eyelashes and eyelid. Do not allow contact with eye. Allow foam to sit on eyelid for about one minute, rinse and gently pat dry. We recommend selling this cleanser to each of your lash clients for use as part of their daily after-care regime as it will improve the longevity and help you when it comes to in-fills."

baby shampoo for eyelash extensions

An alternative to a specialised eyelash extension shampoo is baby shampoo mixed with cooled boiled water. I am told that adding baking powder brings it to the correct ph, but please don't quote me on that! Ideally use in a foam pump dispenser bottle and just use the foam, rinsing afterwards with cool boiled water. Please do this extremely carefully you only want to remove the built up oils. Take great care not to damage the eyelash extensions while cleasing them.

 

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lose individual eyelash extensions

Why are my eyelash extensions are coming out without the natural lash attached?

Why are my eyelash extensions are coming out without the natural lash attached?

  • If this happens within 3 days of your eyelash appointment as a general rule of thumb it's a bonding issue. There was probably oil on your natural lashes from your skin or from products you use, which wasn't fully cleaned off before application. People with oily skin need extra preparation before applying lashes. Eyelash technicians can use a primer, which is alcohol based to strip the natural eyelash of any oils naturally built up on your lashes so it's a nice clean application. If anything is left on your natural eyelashes like tint, oil, make-up remover etc it will cause a barrier and the eyelash extensions will simply come off in the first 3 days.
  • Getting them wet straight after your appointment can cause them to fall off early. Please read aftercare given to you carefully.

lose individual eyelash extensions

  • Retention: Sleeping on the eyelash extensions too heavy or generally being heavy handed with them can cause them to come out. It seems at the moment best practice for applying eyelash extensions is to just have them attached at the base with as little glue as possible to allow them to move. Less is more with eyelash extension glue! If you bond the eyelash extension all the way up the natural lash it doesn't allow much flexibility. It's important that the client tries not to put too much strain on this bond. The glue is very strong, but please don't sleep heavily on the lashes or use eyelash curlers etc on them.

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growth cycle of hair

Autumn shed for hair!

It's that time of the year again when women lose more hair than normal. It's often referred to as 'Autumn shed'. It's when you lose hair sooner than you normally would. During this time the hairs fall out sooner in the 'resting phase' called Telogen. Women often notice it more when they are washing their hair. It's believed that this is because women have thicker hair in the Summer months to protect you from the sun and when Autumn comes we no longer need this extra protection... this is believed to be true by scientists.

What does this mean for eyelash extensions?

This therefore means that you may find you need infills sooner than normal during these Autumn months. Remember to book appointments ahead.

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Other reasons for losing eyelash extensions sooner then expected:

  • Sleeping heavy on them. Prevent this by wearing eye goggles at night.

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Ultimate beauty icon - Twiggy and her false lashes!

Twiggy hit the beauty world with a bang with her false lashes on the front of vogue magazine in 1967. It's claimed she wore 3 sets of fake lashes to get that look. It was in the 60's that people got a lot more adventurous with make-up and started to create really dramatic looks and they stopped worrying about standing out from the crowd.  It's said that Twiggy actually drew on her bottom lashes calling them "twigs"! I think what I love most about Twiggy's look is that it's all about the eyes. Her lips are done in a soft rose and all the attention is drawn to her eyes making the whites of her eyes really stand out. It's a great bold look which is easy to recreate at home.

Her brows are done very softly and natural, which is my personal favourite. I am not a fan of the current 'lego brows' look. I believe in nicely shaped brows with a little powder in them to give them shape and frame your face. Twiggy's foundation is just right it still shows off her freckles, but giving her an even look. Although I like the contoured look which has recently hit the celebrity world, Kim Kardashian being the person who first comes to mind, I believe in a much more natural look. Less is more for me and a lot more manageable for everyday look.

twiggy-vogue-1

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What to look for when choosing Russian volume tweezers

What to look for when choosing Russian volume tweezers:

  • Weight of the tweezers
  • Grip when closed - is the surface area increased? Are there any gaps? Do they meet correctly? Light pressure is better.
  • Angle of tip and length of tip/ foot. I find the shorter the easier to place for me as it gives me a more precious placement on eyelash fan without damaging the fine eyelash extensions.
  • Can they be autoclaved? What are they made of?
  • Where is the pressure point on tweezers? Sometimes this is just getting used to a new pair of tweezers. I prefer the pressure point on the tip, but sometimes it's in the middle.
  • Is the angle of tip of volume tweezers going to give you Repetitive strain injury? I perfer 45'.
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Having the correct tweezers for doing volume lashes is a must. It is a real skill to be able to fan the eyelash extensions. Fanning lashes takes time to master. I have recently purchased Noir 45 volume tweezers from TPS beauty - lash art direct. Their website is under construction, but their ebay shop is very active. I have tried many tweezers that describe themselves as volume tweezers, but they don't have the surface area to pick up more than one eyelash extension. The Noir 45 have been fabulous as volume tweezers and have made doing 2D/ 3D lashes a lot more easy. I can't stress enough how important it is to have the correct equipment when doing lashes. I personally never buy tweezers with pretty patterns on them as they soon wear off when being autoclaved.

Grip of volume tweezers
Grip of volume tweezers

 

Also please do note the difference in angle of these tweezers 90' tweezers are extremely uncomfortable to work with when placing volume eyelash extensions. 45' angles are a lot more natural angle. I personally didn't like the Ventus 6ASA tweezers. Noir 45 is by far a better quality product and light weight.

 

volume eyelash tweezers
Noir 45 - volume eyelash tweezers
volume tweezers
Comparing different angle of volume tweezers

 

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Curved tweezers from Lashbase.co.uk . Also work well for volume lashes, but heavier.
volume tweezers for eyelash extensions
Volume lashes are picking up 2 or more individual lashes and placing on one natural eyelash.

 

I am always on the look out for new products, so please do add links to this blog of eyelash extension equipment you can't be without!

What are your favourite volume tweezers?

Volume tweezers for 2D/ 3D lashes

Products from Amazon.co.uk